almost choke on the Sulphur. 

Only 20 miles away is the mountainous region of Huerquehue.  Here we trek the Lago Verde trail and get some of the best views of Volcan Villarrica. The trail ascends through beech forests, and past stunning waterfalls. In the upper reaches we encounter Pehuen trees. Always we are surrounded by the sounds of the bird life, spookily adding to the atmosphere.

Back to the train and thence onto Puerto Montt where we obtain passage to Puerto Natales via ship and  the Archipeligo of Islands. On this trip shared with two Norwegians, an Australian, a Dutch couple, and a German; time passes slowly. Much of this time is spent updating diaries, reading books, and playing cards.  Here the temperatures are much cooler with ice a natural part of the landscape. The trip lasts three days. On arriving we scramble for dry land as a prisoner escapes his gaoler.

The destination of all but the German is Patagonia. He is heading to Antarctica. That must be a

feeble and mortal souls. The sun sets and with it the pillars glow, their true textures and lines stretching out before us. I take a picture in a pathetic attempt to capture the scene. 

The last day we fly back to Santiago and get a birds eye view of the Andes below. Flying past in only a few hours what took us 28 days to explore. I feel in the beginnings of a love affair, and know that I will return to share many more intimate moments with her...

Phil Whitehurst

Here I am, Friday afternoon driving through Central London. It is now after 4pm, and with one further store to visit, the traffic has ground to a halt. Rivulets of sweat make a dash for freedom down my back.  The radio blurts out in enthusiastic tones "it's going to be a hot one, with temperatures reaching 27^oC ...".  The Mondeo I'm driving doesn't have air conditioning and the broadcast just serves to taunt me. 

"Pembroke...I wish I was in Pembroke" begins the mantra. Myself, Dawn & James have arranged to meet at Charles' for 6.00pm to commence the journey there. I have doubts about escaping London in that time.  My concerns prove valid and wearily I ring Charles from the office at 5.40pm to let him know I'll be late.  I also inform him that I'd prefer to take my car as one more hour without air conditioning and I'll melt away. But don't worry Charles the Volvo will have its day.

Careful packing ensures everything fits into the boot and with Charles at the helm we speed towards our destination. Various comments about babies and large cars and it's the first time I've seen you ... come from a young lady in the back. James talks about a garden wild life survey he is undertaking. Charles & I agree we'll let him know next time we see Tigers or Elephants trashing the roses in our respective gardens. Somewhere in amongst all this talk is the thread of a

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special, wild lonely place to visit. The rest of us catch the bus to  Torres Del Paine. 

This is the one place that everybody had said we had to visit. After all who hasn't been inspired on seeing these massive granite pillars soaring to the heavens. This end of Chile is one of the most rugged, wild and utterly  fantastic areas I have encountered. Storm clouds rush across the sky at mind bending speeds. Light and shade engage in an impossible embrace; lovers grappling in a strange landscape.

We book onto a two day trek and dance and laugh among these massive pillars. To feel its soul, powerful and unmoving, mocking us

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