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hand locks and pockets which leads onto a single much
wider crack and a slab to the right, followed via sloping holds to a final mantle shelf
onto the top. Phil led, with Pete following.
Val Hammer (VS 5a) on Pegasus Wall was the next objective. Pete had the lead. The wide
twin cracks on the upper section looked to be the hardest part. It soon became apparent
that the first half was the harder with quite a few delicate manoeuvres before one was
even in position to tackle the upper section. This route felt even better than the last.
The choice of route was proving to be inspired. Lunch called, but first they settled down
at the bottom of Tower Buttress
Following refreshment the next route chosen was Tower Wall (HVS 5a). Phil had the
lead. After 15 feet or so, and leaving the last bit of gear (for a while) behind, an
undercut was reached with the left hand and stepping up and right (long step) and assuming
a praying mantis position the top of a small flake was reached. Ascending right for
another 20 feet towards a corner the next bit of gear was placed, too much relief. The
ideal was small cams, but if you've already used these (Phil), then a couple of medium
sized nuts should give enough security for the next moves. Tiptoeing left, and
giggling all the way, a friable flake was reached, and a bombproof number 8 hex was
placed. The flake was ascended, walking the feet up with friction, and using the large if
rounded holds. A number 11 hex placed behind the top of flake provided yet more security
for the 10 feet or so. Pete followed uttering some advanced form of French, in
between the grunts. Yet again the lads thought this route better than the last.
The day was proving be excellent, climbing in tea shirts, the scenery, sun shining down,
and no queuing so far. The next route chosen Fairy Steps (VS 4a) brought to an end the
lack of queuing. Pinkie and Perky were on the route, with Pinkie leading. Climbing on a
single rope doubled up the leader managed to cross the rope over. After 1/2 hour of gross
incompetence they'd managed to make a cats cradle of the rope. It went up down, left
right, under over, in no particular order. Giving up Pete and Phil wandered left to climb
the slab route (VS 5a) on the semi detached block. Pete started the lead but gave up after
failing on the technical start about 6 times. Phil took over and also failed about 6 times
but on the seventh attempt managed to make the move without slipping off. The route was
polished! Up the left arête then a long traverse across the slab to the right
arête and an easy finish saw the route completed. Pete then successfully managed to make the
technical start and complete the route without much further ado. They then returned to the
Pinkie and Perky route, which Pete led to finish their seventh and last route of the
day.
Thinking at 17:40 that the others must have missed them, they returned to the car, only to
find Dawn's car still there. Leaving a note and driving over to the Stanage end
plantation, Phil ran up to see if he could find them. No luck, returning to the car park
at 7.00pm, the others had gone, they checked Outside and then headed home. Dawn
rang, just as
(Continued on page 5)
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HMC recruitment campaigns of old |
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Sunday October 5th
There were six to be found in Hathersage that
morning. They were Dawn Wyllie, Helen Agg, Phil Whitehurst, John (from Harrow), Simon
Nash, and Pete Thorogood.
The group were to meet at Outside at 10.30am. Having left Hitchin at 7.00am; Pete and Phil
arrived at the earlier time of 9.00am. Deciding to make the most of this, they
headed over to Millstone. Pete kicked off by leading Great Slab (HS 4a), shortly
after, Phil lead Eartha (HS 4a) just one bay along from the slab. The day started
overcast and jackets were worn, but by the second route the sky had cleared, and warmth
permeated the body and mind. Feeling a self-righteous glow they then sprinted off to the
car to make it to outside by 10.45am. With Simon already heading in to look at the
gear, they joined the others for a tea and coffee upstairs
After a wander around downstairs and the purchase of a pair of boots, and a nut key, the
six headed off to Stanage. Dawn remarked on the lack of colour co-ordination of the
group as they assembled in the car park, maybe she should then climb with John as they had
matching white tea shirts. No, Dawn would climb with Helen and catch up on all the gossip.
The pairings were decided; Dawn & Helen, Phil & Pete, Simon & John.
Walking in the vague direction of Stanage End the group prevaricated below Tower Buttress
and wandering right found them at Paradise Wall. Phil & Pete decided upon a
route there. Whilst getting ready to start the others decided they wanted to do
something easier and headed off towards Stanage End (2 miles distant). Phil & Pete
said they'd see how they got on, but would work in their general direction towards the
end.
Paradise Crack (VS 4c), is an often-romanticised route, but nevertheless is highly
enjoyable. After starting either left or right, twin cracks are met and ascended using a
mixture of |
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Back to December 1997
Crux |
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