Back to March 1999 Crux

Ask Rupert
(the HMCs new Agony Uncle)

As a climber I'm often asked "what is the best way to train for serious rock climbing?" My reply to everyone who asks this is that the best way to gain good results is to use the 'Hertfordshire Method' as I do myself. Below is a weekly training schedule to help you.

One important point to remember is that over training can be dangerous, so don't over do it! - Happy Climbing

Dear Rupert,

On a recent trip to the Himalayas I was criticised for my ice axe technique, could you advise on the best method.

Yours

E Hillary

Ice axes are always tricky, but the most important thing is to have a good quality axe, no second hand purchases, especially in silly colours; the risk of ice axe failure is too great.

As for the correct way to handle an ice axe, it is generally accepted that the 'casual swing' is the most effective, giving both security and a jaunty air to the climber

R.

Dear Rupert,

While away on climbing trips I have taken to eating a popular brand of all day breakfast from a can. Unfortunately my climbing has suffered as a result and I can no longer climb the E grades I used to.

What is wrong?

Yours

J. Dunne

The eating of all day breakfasts by climbers can often result in a condition known as fattios maximus. This causes the patient to become a fat bastard, ultimately reducing climbing ability. The condition is also seen in other groups where patients will have often 'eaten all the pies' causing a similar reduction in performance

So beware!

R.

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