well-abused tree. Lunch follows.

The final climbs of the Saturday are Ulysses (VD) Phil, Splodge (Roped) & Pete (solo). Phil solos Rainy Day (MVS 4c) and then Shon leads Captain Kudos up Chockstone Chimney (D). This being Shon's first ever lead he is christened "Chossy Diff leader".

Phil helps retrieve a stuck "friend" for a nearby climber.  The reward is a free pint for himself & Splodge at the nearby Twice Brewed Inn.

Ace Navigator Shon shows his prowess on the return journey. This time taking a more direct route he decides upon a "short cut". Driving through the fields we stopped every hundred yards as Shon leaped out to open and shut the gates. We were in gate heaven or were it hell?

The evening is spent imbibing at the local "Complete Angler". After sufficient alcohol Nick eventually persuades us to go to a 50p disco where we can do some clocking. On entering we promptly surrounded by young teenage girls. The only clocking that Nick is likely to do is on his age. At least we sneaked in for free!

I am glad to reach the top with my pride intact; the gear wasn't exactly ideal either.  Pete leads Nick and Shon up Black & Tan (S 4b **) after which he gets on the end of the rope to join us on Scorpion.  Splodge and I then climb Black & Tan before stopping for a pasta lunch.

Pete leads The Scoop (VS 4b ***) an excellent route on which Shon & Nick fall off many times much to the amusement of myself and Splodge.  I then lead the same route, getting cramp in one hand half way up, fortunately the holds get bigger & improve towards the top, Splodge follows.

Pete then leads The Runnel (VS 5a *), the crux being half way up and quite committing. I second followed by the others.  I then lead Banana Wall (MVS 4c **) followed by Splodge and Pete.  The upper section is unprotected but the grade has eased by this point so it's not too bad. We then warm down with a few easy routes before retiring to a pub in Belford for Food and Ale.  Belford would make a good venue for a future meet.

Sunday Pete Shon, Nick, & myself head over to Callahues Crag near Bellingham.  It takes 45 minutes across a soggy moor, from a remote farm to reach the crag. We are not surprised to find it deserted. After a few minutes wandering around I spot a layback that it might be possible to solo. Wrong - I am soon backing off to go and get the rope.  With Shon belaying and my well-used cams in the crack I attempt the route to find the exit not only awkward but also the Crux.  The others follow with Shon failing, and Nick on a tight rope.  Looking in the book we discover it is not recorded and so I name it "The 50p Disco"; Pete & I think it to be about VS 5a. The route is to the left of Pilots Licence E1 5b. (A write up with pictures was sent to the guidebook writers when I got back). We then solo around on various boulder problems. We also all climb a route called Polo with an interesting exit through a hole at the top.

Heading home I head via the A68 and some back roads down the A1 & M1 arriving home around 10.30pm. Captain Kudos meanwhile decides upon the M6 and immediately hits the slow traffic due to a caravan turning over.  He arrives home about 3am. 

An excellent weekend.

Phil Whitehurst

Sunday we head North to Bowden Doors, a sandstone crag, near Belford and Wooler.  Splodge meets us there, and already has a brew on in his van.  Unlike soft Southern Sandstone, the rock has a hard crust and can be lead with natural protection.  The formations are something else, a delight just to observe.

Splodge & I start on Scorpion (VS 4c **), which is a leftward leaning scoop. The guidebook in typical northern understatement states that it has a deceptively awkward exit.

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