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Editors Note

 
 
 
 

Gliding at Dunstable

 
 

Gliding has been arranged at Dunstable downs on Tue 2nd June for a cost of £19.00 per person. Contact Jane Whitrow

 
 

Diary of a Climber (February)

 
 

Hi,

There's been plenty of activity since the last Crux in December.  The highlight being the 40th Dinner which took place on the 18th April  with 60 people attending. We have a couple on articles on this, one from Balders the other from Albert.  I hope you all enjoyed the 40th Anniversary Crux.

The AGM took place on the same date with Albert being elected Chairman. The minutes with full details of those elected are included with this edition.

Following a months holiday in Chile in February I have now finished my stint in Ireland and have returned to these shores full time. 

Plenty of articles this month, in fact too many to include, so some will be delayed till the August edition. If you have anything to include in the next Crux please let me have them by the first week of August.

Last weekend being extremely hot and saw 8 of us down in Cornwall enjoying Bosigran, Sennen Cove, and Chair Ladder.  Alfie also had a Chunder in Pendeen much to the amusement of the A-Z's.

We now have a meets list extending in 1999 and I hope it satisfies your needs. Please contact Charles White if you have ideas for alternative venues to those shown.

Phil Whitehurst

February 21

We all got up to a gloomy, wet day, and decided that the Moelwyns would be a good idea, since the rock was rough and clean enough to be climbable in the wet. We met Charles, Dawn, Gary and Bill at Clogwyn yr Oen, and set about trying to make the guidebook's descriptions match the crag. We knew we were at Oen, because Norman had been here before, but that didn't deter Charles from attempting to find Africa Rib, even though that particular route was on Clogwyn y Clipiau, and about two miles distant.

Justin and I settled on Kirkus's Direct S**, because we could find the start of it. We took the thrutchy chimney start (VDiff), and I led off up to a pillar and a few moves across a slab to the foot of a steep crack. Justin swarmed up this and ended up on a huge stance. I set off up an easy left to right rake on the wall behind the belay, and ended up perched on top of a large pinnacle. A good runner and an enjoyable but scary pull over a bulge led to easier slabs and a good stance after about 80 feet. Justin romped through up more cracked slabs, and a quick scramble took us to the top of the crag. The guidebook doesn't make any mention of this part of the climb, so we either did an extra route unknowingly, or we really were on the wrong crag!

Charles and Bill were gearing up at the foot of the climb

(Continued on page 6)

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