Back to June 1999 Crux


So how do you prevent atrophy while laid up? Do all those weeks of intensive training need to go to waste? No! Just follow these tips next time you fall off a climbing wall and you too can be back on form as soon as it's possible to hobble to the crag again.

  1. TV: You're going to be sat on your arse for at least 2 days so get some good quality climbing videos in. Top inspirational titles include Hard Git, Stone monkey, and Best Forgotten Art. Regular viewing will prevent disillusionment with the cause of your injury.

  2. Exercises: Get some of those finger exercises to squeeze while sat on your arse watching all the climbing vids - crimp along with the pros!


And remember crutches are also very good for the shoulders, happy climbing!

Rupert Priestnall

the language of climbing. It is vital to be able to give clear instructions to your partner, this is especially important in noisy conditions. All too often I have seen the looks of disappointment on climbers faces when their partner has come back from the crowded bar with a diet coke instead of the lager that was required. However, by learning the language of climbing, such accidents can easily be avoided. I am therefore dedicating the issues column to clarifying the main points.

Abseil


A technique used by some "hard" climbers to preplace the protection on routes easily within their capabilities. Alternatively a common device used in conversation when it is revealed you are a climber e.g. "you're a climber eh! I went abseiling once."

Belay


A dubious rope system set up by the lead climber primarily designed to offer psychological comfort for the second, who is normally un aware of the danger they are in.

Drink


An essential part of climbing often taking place before, after and sometimes during. It is used mainly as a memory aid to help recall all the tremendous sloping holds and poor protection you encountered on the V Diff you did earlier.

Friends


A term often wrongly used to refer to camming devices. Friends are actually climbers or other interested parties who have a car and are willing to take you on frequent climbing trips. Technical friends are those who possess all the gear as well as being able to lead the routes you are too chicken to attempt.

Nuts


Also known as "Balls" - what you need for leading.

Leader Fall


Occurring generally when the climber has attempted something beyond their ability or after bumbling off route onto an E5. Leader falls are expressed in feet as there are roughly 3 more of them to the metre making it easier to baffle others into a false sense of admiration.

Rupert Priestnall

 
 

Ask Rupert

 
 

As a climber I am often asked "What does it all mean?". Confusion amongst beginners is rife and with so many confusing terms and new expressions who can blame them? Communication is the key in climbing and communication as we all know involves language, in this case

Page 10

Back to June 1999 Crux

For more info about the HMC, see the main HMC website, or send an email to the  Secretary at thehmc.co.uk 

This page was last updated by  Ye old Webmaster  on 02/04/05