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seil down to a ledge below. Phil kept a cool head, rigged
up the abseil and headed down to the ledge below. He then free climbed a short way down to
the gully further down.
Chris and I then followed Phil and ended up on a small ledge not tied on. I then looked at
the subsequent free climb from this point and felt uncomfortable doing this without a
rope. Gary then took control and abseiled down to a precarious point above us, untied and
free climbed a short way up to a belay point that other climbers had used before (they
must have made the same mistake). Gary then made himself safe partly using gear that
climbers had left before which included a rusty karibiner (it was the only option),he then
lowered the rope to allow Chris and myself to climb safely down. At this point I should
thank Gary for a top effort. (Rescuing people with ropes |
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Charles & Chris, Collies Ledge |
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looked for another route up the gap, he found one that
looked more difficult but by this time we only had the energy to do it the easy way.
Eventually the group ahead of us moved on and Phil once again came into his own, none of
us really wanted to lead the route so Phil did it with low energy levels in the freezing
cold and no rock boots.
Gary then superbly climbed up to the midpoint of the climb, made himself safe and heaved
the rucksacks up the route. Myself, Chris and Charles then followed, the time was now
9.30pm!
Once most of us were out of the gap Gary climbed up ahead to look for suitable Bivi sites,
as it was obvious to us now that we had run out of time to make it to the Bivi site we
wanted. We ended up sleeping at the foot of Sgurr Alistair at about 3800ft with the most
amazingly view of Loch Coriusk. After putting on every item of clothing we had we settled
down for what I can only describe as an indifferent nights sleep.
Captain Keen (Gary) awoke at 4.30am! and decided against a lie in for all of us, and got
us all moving by 5.15. I was sleeping crap, so no problem, but Phil and Charles weren't
too impressed, Gary had obviously disturbed their dreams of Famous Five stories and
marmalade sandwiches and forced them to pack up their teddy bears and move on.
We left our sacks at the bivi sites and climbed Sgurr Alastair, came back down, collected
the sacks and continue moving along the ridge in the warm glow of anticipation knowing
that we still had to complete two thirds of the ridge in one day. Unfortunately the luck
we had with the weather didn't stay with us the next day and we ended walking along the
ridge shrouded in cloud.
This contributed to our first mistake. We came to a point on the ridge where it was
unclear as to the route we should take, we made the wrong decision and ended up on a ledge
where it was only possible to ab |
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Chris - Inaccessible Pinnacle |
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is becoming a habit for Gary)
After this experience I decided to call it a day and got off the ridge at this point, the
other four continued onto the Inaccessible pinnacle (Gary informs me it's the only
summit in Scotland where a rope is required to climb it). Phil led the route and everybody
else fol |
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Gary, abseiling off Inaccessible Pinnacle |
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Back to November 1999 Crux
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