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Turban West (VD) next. This latter route was all scoops and the one bit of gear
of no real use. This was potential deckout territory, Phil disappointed in this
respect. Once again they found no easy descent route and ended up abseiling down the
chimney on the right.
Sunday: Albert, Phil & Suzanne went for a walk up the waterfall at the back of
Goredale Scar over to Malham Tarn, returning via the old smelting chimney, and Malham
Cove. The right hand end of the cove had a few climbers using traditional gear and
is certainly worth a visit on a future date. Phil had a look at the bolted routes in the
centre of the cove and just stared in disbelief - impossible!
A couple of pints of Black sheep from the Lister Arms and consumed on the village green
went down well. Phil & Suzanne then went to visit his Nanna on the edge of the
Dales while Albert headed off separately. Phil then made the trip back to Hemel by
9.30pm. A highly illegal 3 hours spent on the road. |
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August 1st-3rd
Phil & Suzanne started the climbing early with a trip to Earl Crag, above Cowling.
They arrived at the crag about 7.30pm on the Friday, giving a couple of hours climbing or
so. They played about on Slab Corner a pleasant route about halfway along the
crag. Suzanne learnt to belay and the fact that the boots she'd borrowed were about
2 sizes too big. These proved amusing on a slab route and she may as well have been
climbing in roller skates (probably a better choice) as for some reason smearing wasn't
all that successful. The crag was quiet with just birdsong for company and a fine
fragrant moorland air. A pleasant place to enjoy an evenings climbing - soloing or
roped.
Whilst leaving about 9.30pm they ascended the local folly a tower at the eastern end of
the crag. This proved to be the local teenage pickup joint, full of alcopops and
giggling girls. They drove on to |
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August 10th
I had been meaning to visit the Leicestershire rock for sometime. Only 1 to 1.5 hours away
and therefore a possible evening or days trip venue. On Friday 8th August
I made a call to Charles. Did he fancy a trip to Leicester to go climbing? The answer was
yes.
Sunday lunchtime found us driving up the M1 in blistering heat. The advantages of
soft-top, at high speed, wind in hair, gave a little respite for the temperature.
Didn't stop us getting somewhat lobster red from the sun though. We chose as our venue
Markfield quarry, only 2 miles or so from junction 22 of the M1. No special reason, other
than Charles had been there before, and over 70 routes were indicated in the guide.
Arrival at the Quarry is not inspiring. Various keep out signs, "Danger Deep
Water", closed gates, and fencing. Don't be deterred though, it's actually
quite a pleasant location, once inside. Through the hole in the fence you wander
past the central feature of the quarry, a large pool. A number of routes start at
the waters edge; the only protection recommended is a life jacket.
We selected the upper tier, away from the water. A couple of guys were climbing on
Betty's slab already. No one else was around. This wouldn't last for long. The locals use
the area for picnicking and swimming. The silence was soon broken the shouts of the
teenage lads leaping off the ledges into the water.
I'm sure we intended to get the rope out. In fact I remember bringing all the gear with
us. In the searing heat it
(Continued on page 5)
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meet Albert at the Goredale Campsite in Malham. He'd just returned from the pub.
Quickly putting the tents up they drove back into the village for last orders at the Buck
Inn.
Saturday Albert went for a walk over to Falcon in Arnscliffe (Devil worshipping venue) and
back via a different route over the moors. Phil and Suzanne went to Brimham rocks
for the day; the place was relatively quiet. They did a number of routes on the
strange shaped rocks. On Ariel Altar and Turtle rocks they did Excursion (VD) and Turtle
Rocks Chimney (VD). The later ended up on an isolated tower with Suzanne being lowered
down and Phil leaping across to the main rock. Dancing Bear (VD) next on Dancing
Bear rock! Over to Indian |
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Back to September 1997
Crux |
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