Kinky Boots

campsite fees and making breakfast we sauntered on down to Saggy Joint.  Here we were amazed to find no one climbing - at all! On the promontory we climbed Shangri-La - S 4a (twice - Gary leading the second time), Urizen - VS 4c, and Lost Horizons - HVS 5a.  Some local climbers turned up about lunchtime.  They suggested some other venues worth a visit in the area. We never made it to these alternatives, but they're noted for future reference.  After saying goodbye to them we headed across to Cave slab. On this bit of rock Gary led. In your eyes - S 4a and Ben - S 4a were his second and third severe leads of the day. It began to rain on the latter, and so we called it a day at 7.15pm. 

During the evening Albert turned up. The HMC followed its usual pattern for the evening and went off on a pub-crawl in Croyde.  The land of "Top Tottie" is alive and well in this small place. Saturday it continued to rain, and after breakfast Gary & I walked over to Woolacombe, about 1/2 an hour after Albert had gone the same way.  Returning to the campsite at 4.00pm we drove over to Braunton to get some food.

By 5.00pm we were back and set off for Baggy shorts now that the sun had returned.  A decision was reached, Kinky Boots or die.  Carefully we scrambled down to the ledge from which you launch yourself across the Zawn.  Three bits of gear for the Belayer and we were ready. I leant across the Zawn and with the flat of my right hand against the rock extracted a friend ready for placement. It proved to be the wrong size, but luckily my second choice was perfect (a size 3 quadcam). Walking my feet back up the ledge the hands were switched and the left hand now found a small hold from which I would have to swing on.  Launching myself across, the right leg swung first followed by other then the right arm.  Totally committed now I swivelled on my feet reaching for the deep incut in the middle of the first overlap with my right hand. Having made this I brought my feet up onto the same slab then balanced up to place a second friend higher up.

Working right and up I found a horizontal crack below the main overlap and this suited a size 5 nut.  Moving up to the right I balanced precariously and reached for a hold at the top of the main overlap. Desperately trying to move the feet up and find a second handhold I failed miserably. The left armed eventually pumped gave out and sent me floating down towards the Zawn. All the gear held, and as the rope came taut it flung me into the side of the Zawn.  I then span and my head went crashing into the next overlap.  Helmets are seriously good bits of gear. Thanks to mine I didn't even sustain a scratch.

(Continued on page 7)